June 22, 2006--35 Miles to the Magnum
Just when I’m settled in here and have adapted to the new time zone, but more important built up my wine-drinking capacity so that I can handle a glass or three over both lunch and dinner, not to mention an occasional mitz y mitz between, I read in the IHT that the European Union wants to mess with the European, actually French, wine-producing system (article linked below).
The problem is that with virtually every state in the United States, not to mention Australian, Chile, and others producing better and better wines, the demand for European wine (again, read French) has declined; and so vintners each year are left with many left over bottles.
They have figured out a solution to that—via EU agricultural subsidies, buy the excess wine from the producers and turn it into industrial alcohol. Tres elegant. But it does get money into the hands of the wine growers and to many of them that’s all they really care about because, in truth, a great deal of wine being produced in Europe, and yes also France is, how shall I put this, swill.
Actually, that’s part of the problem too—the hegemonic hold that French, Italian, and Spanish producers have had for centuries is being successfully challenged by the production of very high quality wines from all over the world.
The EU’s agricultural commissioner is formulating proposals that would change the system—begin to end subsidies for overproduction and let market conditions prevail. In theory this should put pressure on winemakers to enhance the quality of their wines. But it’s my guess that her proposals have very little chance of being approved since farmers and wine growers are a very powerful lobby across Europe and to them, if via subsidies their excess wine is destined to be turned into rubbing alcohol, then what’s the problem?
One proposal not on the table is to turn the surplus wine into fuel for cars—that would be one way to chip away at another hegemony—the stranglehold Middle East oil producers have on the “developed” world. Actually, some conversion of wine to, in effect, petrol is already occurring.
But as one might imagine, as if this situation isn’t complicated enough, there is also the feeling in parts of France that this surplus in wine is all the fault of, yes, America. At least to one producer, Serge Azais, from the Languedoc region, which produces, I admit, some of my favorite wines; and it is also the region of my favorite heresy, but that’s for another blog. Monsieur Azais claims that “If the British [OK, the British are at fault too] and Americans had better taste, I wouldn’t have to destroy so much of my wine.”
Excuse moi, I think I do have good taste and I do know your wine--it would do much better in my car than in my glass.
The problem is that with virtually every state in the United States, not to mention Australian, Chile, and others producing better and better wines, the demand for European wine (again, read French) has declined; and so vintners each year are left with many left over bottles.
They have figured out a solution to that—via EU agricultural subsidies, buy the excess wine from the producers and turn it into industrial alcohol. Tres elegant. But it does get money into the hands of the wine growers and to many of them that’s all they really care about because, in truth, a great deal of wine being produced in Europe, and yes also France is, how shall I put this, swill.
Actually, that’s part of the problem too—the hegemonic hold that French, Italian, and Spanish producers have had for centuries is being successfully challenged by the production of very high quality wines from all over the world.
The EU’s agricultural commissioner is formulating proposals that would change the system—begin to end subsidies for overproduction and let market conditions prevail. In theory this should put pressure on winemakers to enhance the quality of their wines. But it’s my guess that her proposals have very little chance of being approved since farmers and wine growers are a very powerful lobby across Europe and to them, if via subsidies their excess wine is destined to be turned into rubbing alcohol, then what’s the problem?
One proposal not on the table is to turn the surplus wine into fuel for cars—that would be one way to chip away at another hegemony—the stranglehold Middle East oil producers have on the “developed” world. Actually, some conversion of wine to, in effect, petrol is already occurring.
But as one might imagine, as if this situation isn’t complicated enough, there is also the feeling in parts of France that this surplus in wine is all the fault of, yes, America. At least to one producer, Serge Azais, from the Languedoc region, which produces, I admit, some of my favorite wines; and it is also the region of my favorite heresy, but that’s for another blog. Monsieur Azais claims that “If the British [OK, the British are at fault too] and Americans had better taste, I wouldn’t have to destroy so much of my wine.”
Excuse moi, I think I do have good taste and I do know your wine--it would do much better in my car than in my glass.
posted by Steven Zwerling at
1:06 PM
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